Tag: woodworking

An Ode to Desks

an ode to desks

Desks are the fields and factories of our time.

As civilization turned to cultivation, mankind moved from forest to field. As the industrial revolution overtook farming, mankind moved from field to factory.[1]

And as civilization turned to corporations, mankind moved from factory to furniture.[2]

Desks play a huge role in our lives. You’re at work? Probably at a desk.[4] In school? Desk. Arrived at a hotel? Check in at the front desk.[5]

And even within those desk activities you can notice various displays of intra- and interpersonal behavior; the obsessed desk decorator from HR, the kid doodling the cool S thing on a school desk, that weird feeling of having your personal space invaded when someone stops by and leans on your desk.

So below will follow a story—my story—of desks.

When my older brother left for college and I moved upstairs to his old room then a tall, dark wood desk with many drawers and shelves became mine. It smelled like a countryside cottage, not old but well seasoned; it contrasted sharply with its location in a suburban home’s upper floor. Further, it was stately and grand and quite unlike anything else I’d had.

I proceeded to make that grand desk reflect me and my interests; action figures, my Lego creations, awards, interesting finds from the nearby river and woods, and other odds and ends adorned the desk and its attached shelves.

Some of my favorite memories from the time I spent in that room include that desk; sketching, drawing, writing, playing music or a riveting game of Sid Meier’s Alpha Centauri or Medieval: Total War on the Pentium 4 computer at its center. Snowy days looking out the window by that desk watching the evergreens in the backyard blanketed white and heavy.

Then seasons changed. Snow days turned to summer days and with the change of the seasons comes the passing of years. As my older siblings had left and I’d inherited the desk, so too I left and passed the desk on when I went to college. I don’t believe I’ve seen that desk since.

College dorms aren’t known for their magnitude, and I got used to a small rickety end table that was lying about being a desk. A bad sneeze would have knocked its legs off.

Then a few years later, while walking to my slightly larger newlywed apartment, I found an old desk put out for the trash. It had a certain charm that my particleboard desk lacked, and I spent an hour lugging it the rest of the way home myself:

The desk in all its glory. In hindsight, I should have left it for the trash.

We took that desk with us across a few states but ultimately had to leave it on one coast when we flew to the other (sadly, I wasn’t in love with that desk enough to pay for movers).

So to fill a hole in my heart the size of a desk, I looked around in the garage for some spare wood. I challenged myself to make a desk without buying lumber; it was a true Ultimate Scrap Challenge. Plus, I had the added challenge of not having any woodworking tools other than a drill and an old circular saw which I had to borrow from my parents. And as you’ll soon see, I didn’t have any woodworking experience, either.

Making this desk was…a good try. Yeah, we’ll call it a good try:

Ignore my (lack of!) cable management. And my lack of skill.

Fine. It was merely a try. How that desk never fell apart I’m really not sure (especially since I had not yet discovered the magic of pocket hole screws).

About two years later I saw this picture and decided to do something like it for my kids:

If I build them a desk, they’ll do their homework without me asking, right?

It resulted in my first trip to IKEA, which is an interesting place (the meatballs are extremely overrated). ALEX drawers for the win!

Kinda messy, but it worked!

Soon after the kids’ desk then I made a desk for my wife to house her PC and the printer (which was either on the floor or took up half of her desk space before I made her this desk):

Not too shabby- plus my skills are improving!

At this point my rickety desk was starting to wobble and I started looking for a replacement before it collapsed entirely. I longed for a grand desk like what you’d see on Downtown Abbey, and reading A Gentleman in Moscow intensified that desire- who wouldn’t want a stately desk, full of history, with secret compartments for gold coins?!

After looking into grand desks I realized they weren’t as appealing as I thought, in part due to their cost but also their immense size and weight. Of course, if gifted such a desk I’d gratefully accept it and baby it, but buying one was out of the picture.

So with three years of woodworking experience that followed my first desk creation attempt, I was ready to make another try.

What resulted is this:

Resin? LEDs? MUCH better!

I’m writing up the whole process of creating this desk, but it’s an amazing thing to have completed for someone like me, who was still fairly new to woodworking.

May your desks be strong and your productivity high!

[1] This is a generality; of course not every single person moved from one to another. There are still forests, and farms, and factories.

[2] I would have said “mankind moved to desks” but I had to keep going with the F words.[3]

[3] That F word is NOT what I meant!

[4] I see retail/food checkout and service areas as long desks.

[5] I used to work at the front desk of a hotel and I still don’t know where the other desks are. Is there a back desk? A side desk? No one knows!

DIY Wood Google Home Mini Stand

Adding some style and utility to our Google Home Mini

I won a Google Home Mini from a raffle at work and it’s been a huge hit with the family. Who knew a robot could make fart jokes?

The only downside to it was our struggle to find an optimal location; it seemed designed to sit either flat on a table, desk, or counter, or to be mounted vertically on a wall.

However, we preferred to place it at a 45 degree angle on the kitchen counter so we could better see its aesthetic design, have it in arm’s reach, and avoid adding holes to the wall.

A few weeks before we received it, I had been looking around for a phone stand and came across this version that resembled a Viking chair:

The Vikings would be proud

I thought this wooden phone stand design looked awesome, and decided to make a version of this for the Google Home Mini to rest on.

I started out with two .25″ thick pieces that I intended to stain later on. I sanded them down and then made a .25″cut on both going halfway through and combined the cutouts on each piece like this:

Smooooooooooth

After placing the Home Mini on it, I realized that the power cable would look messy just hanging out the back:

Don’t let the cable management folks at PCMR see this

So I decided to make a box to go on the back that I could use to route the cables into, then back out again to the outlet:

Dry fitting pieces

Then once it was glued together I put it on the counter for a test:

Lookin’ good!

Some of the sharper-eyed among you might have noticed a cut into the front where the Home Mini sits or rests. I did that after worrying that it wouldn’t sit on a flat surface and could potentially roll off.

View from the front

However, tragedy struck when I dropped the holder and it broke right where I’d made that cutout!

The broken piece on top of some replacement pieces

After briefly considering glue, I decided to just start over. I luckily had some nice-looking dark brown wood left over from a toothbrush holder project I’d done a few months before that would be perfect.

I cut the dark brown wood down to the same dimensions as the original holder and then cut notches into both sides.

I think it looks even better than the first one!

The test fit was encouraging:

Elegant as an elephant

Once the main holder part was done, I cut more pieces down to fit the cables in the back and drilled holes in the front and back to thread the power cable:

Clamped down like a quarantine town

After letting it dry it was done! Here it is on its new home on the kitchen counter:

OK Google, who made the best Google Home Mini stand?

Looking good!

I’m really pleased with how it turned out, and am providing a list of the pieces I cut so you can make your own:

Cut to:#Part/Reason/Placement:Cut?
58in x 8.5in2Bottom part of stand
23.75in x 8in4Middle parts of the supports
?23.75in x 3in1Top of cable holder box on the back
3in x 4.25in2Side pieces for the cable holder box on the back
3in x 4.25in1Back piece for the cable holder box on the back

Making a Simple Miter Saw Stand from Scrap Wood

DIY Miter Saw Stand

“What good is a miter saw if you’re unable to saw?” said in the voice of Agent Smith to Neo

Last summer I was swamped with projects, including the bird cage stand and super sturdy kitchen chair. I didn’t have a ton of space to work in the garage, and was constantly moving things around to have a work surface.

For example, if I wanted to cut wood with the miter saw then I had to move the wood on my desk that was being glued together somewhere else, and later move the saw onto the floor to make room for the next stage of a separate project.

It was clear I needed a dedicated place for the miter saw, and started thinking about making a miter saw stand.

I had recently added this RIDGID shop vac to the list of things on the garage floor, and there was a perfect spot for it next to my work desk:

Fits like a cookie in my mouth

As I planned out my miter saw stand I realized I could save space by placing the shop vac under the stand. I then looked around at what other folks had done and found a few ideas for inspiration:

My other requirements were pretty simple:

  • I had to be able to remove the shop vac easily (so I could vacuum out the car or use the vacuum’s blower function after mowing the lawn)
  • be able to move the stand around for longer cuts, and
  • it had to fit in the space next to my work desk.

I also needed 4 inches of clearance from the bottom of the miter saw stand because of cinder blocks that stuck out partway from the garage wall (see the above picture). Since the wheels are 2.75 inches tall I decided to use 2x4s (with an actual height of 1.5 inches) bolted to plywood so the base would sit higher than the cinderblocks.

I had about 2 feet next to my work desk so I started with those dimensions and worked my way backwards.

I grabbed some extra plywood that was laying around and cut one piece to 23×22 inches for the base and another to 24×22 inches for the top (I wanted a bit more space at the top, and this gave me an extra half inch on the right and left sides).

I screwed in the 2x4s to the bottom piece of plywod with Spax screws:

I screwed in from the top of the bottom piece, then flipped it over for the next step

I then added these awesome rolling wheels with locks to the bottom so I could move the stand as needed:

Wheels locked and loaded

I did a test fit and things were looking good:

Rolled like butter on hot bread

For the legs on top of the base, initially I thought I’d use 4x4s (left over from the ultimate chair project) for each corner, however there wouldn’t be enough space to take the vacuum out from the front of the stand:

Captain, I need more space!

Instead, I ended up using 4x4s in the back and 2x4s in the front which allowed me to easily get the vacuum out.

I then used pocket hole screws to connect the 4×4 legs and 2x4s with some spare 1×6 boards:

I have an unhealthy love for pocket hole screws

I then attached the legs using even more pocket hole screws to the base:

Hooray for kettlebells! Keeping things sturdy since the 18th century[1]

After the legs were on, I attached the top with more Spax screws[2]:

Topless no more

I then added some 2x4s and a scrap 2×6 underneath the top piece for additional support:

So much support

Then I placed the miter saw on the stand, tested the wheels and locking function, and it worked!

Ready to go!

I love that I could easily move the miter saw stand out to make cuts and then back into the corner when not in use.

Here’s a list of cuts so you can make it (and adjust for your own space as needed):

Cut to:#Part/Reason/Placement:Cut?
58in x 8.5in2Bottom part of stand
23.75in x 8in4Middle parts of the supports
?23.75in x 3in1Top of cable holder box on the back
3in x 4.25in2Side pieces for the cable holder box on the back
3in x 4.25in1Back piece for the cable holder box on the back

As a final detail I got some ruler tape and attached it to both sides to make measuring for quick cuts a lot easier:

Perfect

In the future I might add collapsible sides, but so far I haven’t needed them (plus the saw came with some removable side supports). If I do add collapsible sides then I’ll probably make a larger top piece so there’s space on each end for the collapsible ends to fit underneath.

Let me know what you think!

[1] It’s true: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettlebell

[2] I love both pocket hole screws and Spax screws. I know, it’s weird.

The Sturdiest Kitchen Chair in the World

I set out to make a set of chairs that matched the farmhouse style kitchen table I’d made. I ended up creating the sturdiest chair in the world.

Over the past year I’ve gotten into woodworking as a hobby. During my sabbatical last fall I made a farmhouse style kitchen table, and the family loved it.

But the chairs weren’t a great fit. They didn’t match the table’s style or finish at all, plus they were starting to fall apart. I made a note to make new chairs and then forgot about it.

A few months went by and the kitchen chairs were really starting to need replacement. So I picked the project back up again.

I wanted to use the same wood (4x4s, 2x4s, 2x6s and 2x8s) in the same pattern I’d used in my farmhouse kitchen table build. Further, I wanted to assemble them the same way as I’d done with the table; namely, using pocket hole screws.[1]

The issue with that approach is we don’t move a table very much, but chairs need to move all the time in addition to reliably supporting more weight than a table. That meant having four 4x4s attached to 2x4s with pocket hole screws as originally designed was going to cause issues.

So I updated my design to use rabbet and dado cuts:

The adjusted design with dados in the 4x4s to support the 2x4s. Good luck reading my handwriting!

I didn’t know it then, but the result would be the sturdiest chair in the world.

After finding usable scrap in the garage and getting the remaining materials, I went to the table saw and cut my dados and rabbets.

I promise no rabbits were harmed in the making of this project.

Things got a bit crazy with the back legs; I had multiple dados on each leg as well as a 3.5 inch dado right below a 1.5 inch dado (for the seat):

It kinda felt like playing Jenga or Tetris

With the legs done it was time to dry fit and correct any major issues before moving forward:

My wife is a saint for allowing me to keep the wood in the kitchen

Not bad! I had to make some adjustments to a few dado cuts but nothing major.

I then cut the other wood (2x4s, etc) to size. Here’s a closeup of the chair’s front right corner so you can get an idea of how I placed the top supports:

Jeeeeeeenga!

I then used these screws from Lowe’s to put things together:

A bit pricey, but they look amazing

Here’s the backrest; I planned on using 2 screws on each side for each backrest piece but it ended up being really sturdy without them:

Notice the sanded edges too.

And here’s how I screwed in the sides:

Sand before you screw these in, or add painter’s tape to the screws before you sand, otherwise you’ll rub off the paint as I did.

I decided to add two support pieces underneath the seat for added stability since the seat pieces were attached to each other using pocket hole screws:

Not my best job, but they worked!

I spent extra time sanding down the edges and corners so no one would get hurt, and here is the result:

A thing of beauty

Sitting on it was actually not bad; the next step was to use the bandsaw to cut a curve in the backrest pieces to be more comfortable.

But before I could do that we got a nice surprise: someone gave us five really nice Ikea chairs!

The three chairs for comparison: Ikea in front, original in back, and the one I made on the left.

As a result, the chair I designed and made was now obsolete; I wasn’t going to turn down five free $70 chairs when I still had to make 3 more by myself.

If you are interested in building this chair for yourself, here are the cuts you need to make for each chair (along with a column you can use to check off as you make each cut):

# pieces:Wood:Cut to:Part/Reason/Placement:Cut?
32×416 inBack rests & front support
22×417.25 inSide supports on the bottom
22×415.75 inSide supports on the top
22×413 inSupports underneath the seat
24×440 inBack legs
24×416.25 inFront legs
22×616.25 inSeat top (sides)
12×816.25 inSeat top (middle)

Note that the two 2×6 and one 2×8 pieces give a total of 18.25 inches in seat width which was perfect for us, but you can adjust as needed by either using smaller wood combinations or cutting them down.

[1] I love pocket hole screws. They’re magic.

The Ultimate Scrap Challenge

I recently published a post doing what I called “The Ultimate Scrap Challenge” during which I created an outdoor patio table using only scraps from previous projects.

It’s a silly, embellished name for such a small project. And I was sure I wasn’t the first to use it.

As I prepared that post I searched online for “ultimate scrap challenge” to see if anyone had used the term already and if I was going to get in trouble for using the phrase.

What I found was this:

Huh.

I was surprised. I certainly am not the first to think of this concept. There’s a huge maker community out there, as well as super minimalist, conservation-minded, and waste-conscious people too.

My guess is these communities already have a term for this kind of activity- and that it’s a much better one than The Ultimate Scrap Challenge- but I’m not aware of its name.

Either way, I want to get people involved in using up junk and clearing their clutter. It’s good for the budget, the environment, and creativity.

So let’s make this a thing.

TUSC Rules

  • “Scrap” is:
    • Material left over from a project
    • Material that went unused (perhaps you bought it and never used it, and it’s too late to return it)
    • Material that’s repurposed (perhaps something is broken and you take parts off)
    • Note: trash does not necessarily qualify as scrap. More on this in the FAQs.
  • Create something new from scrap as defined above.
    • Instead of creating something new you may also improve an existing object
  • Don’t make things that hurt people.

FAQs

  • Does my challenge need to have a specific purpose or utility?
    • Kind of. TUSC isn’t about merely changing scrap into better organized scrap; it’s also about solving problems, inspiring creativity, and saving money along the way.
  • Can I make art as part of TUSC?
    • Sure. In “The Lessons of History” (which I highly recommend!) there’s a definition of art that I really like: “establishing a meaningful order in the chaos of materials.” I think that fits here.
  • But art, especially modern art, doesn’t have utility or meaning.
    • Yeah, I’m not gonna go there right now. Plus that isn’t even a question.
  • Does my challenge have to be made from wood?
    • Nope. I used wood because it was what I wanted to use up. If you have leftover paint from model projects or cloth from sewing projects then please, use that (and anything else you’d like)!
  • Can I 3D print/otherwise create stuff for this?
    • Sure.
  • What if I have to buy something for my challenge?
    • That’s probably fine. You might want to consider: “Will the overall utility of this new creation outweigh the cost of what I’ll buy to make it happen?” If so, go for it. If not, maybe adjust your design or project.
  • What do you mean when you said trash doesn’t qualify as scrap?
    • I admit there’s overlap, but I’d prefer the focus of your TUSC project is on reducing clutter as opposed to just going through the garbage. While a lot of clutter might just be trash, and good material can be sourced from garbage piles, try to prioritize scrap first from your living space and second from other places.
  • Then why don’t you just call it “The Ultimate Clutter Challenge”?
    • I’d argue that “scrap” has a broader definition than “clutter” and fits better here; I don’t consider wood left over from a table project to be “clutter” even though it’s cluttering up my garage. Shrug.

And if you’re a glutton for punishment, you can broaden the scope of your Ultimate Scrap Challenge project to include using only leftover hardware (nails, screws, cables, etc) for added difficulty 🙂

Post your Ultimate Scrap Challenges in the comments and let’s see what we create!

Making a Mew Drain Cover

A fun Easter egg for the next family who moves in 🙂

Our basement has a strange, almost exactly 12 inch x 12 inch hole in the cement floor that, as far as I can tell, is only there for air conditioner drainage. It was “covered” by a hard plastic grate with large slits.

The drain

A few months after moving in we noticed small gnat-like creatures appearing in our basement. Research pointed to the drain as their source, so I smothered the drain with Boric Acid powder and covered the opening with foil tape (it was left in the garage by the previous owners, was rigid enough to cover the space without collapsing, and I was lazy):

Foil tape cover (after a few years) in all its ugly glory

No more gnats!

A few years passed and all was well…until the beetles came. Like the gnats that preceded them, they starting showed up in the basement. Research again indicated their source was the drain.

Pulling up the foil tape I found several beetles stuck to the adhesive where they had tried to get out of the drain. Bingo.

I set out for a better drain; a drain that let a pipe in, but didn’t let bugs out. Several hardware stores and even the mighty Amazon.com let me down.

It was time to go rogue.

At first I thought of 3D printing my own drain cover. I designed the cover in AutoDesk Fusion 360 (which is amazing, mad respect) and included an entrance for the A/C drainage pipe. I even beveled (chamfered?) the edges to match the concrete opening for that 10/10 fit:

I LOVE AUTODESK FUSION 360

I decided it needed something…more. Something both unexpected and exciting. No sir, this would not be your Average Drain Cover. It needed an Easter Egg.[1]

After some debate and soulful Google Image searching I found the ultimate Easter Egg: the Mew carving from ‘Pokemon The First Movie‘ (1999):

Purrrfect[2]

I found a way to embed the carving into the surface of my 3D model and we were ready to go:

However, I tried and failed to find a 3D printer with a large enough print bed. I experimented with a slightly scaled down version (closer to 11 inches) on the largest printer at the local maker space, but had issues with bed adhesion so scrapped it.

I debated a re-design that would make an interlocking set of 4 pieces…but ultimately decided laser engraving wood would be easier.

I found a few leftover wood boards that fit the bill, fired up Photoshop, and got to work.

First I had to convert the Mew image into a bitmap. Going back to the source image I traced out Mew, removed a lot of the fuzzy details (for a cleaner engraving), and then added in some marks with the brush tool to improve the “old stone engraving” look:

Lookin’ good

My first laser engraving attempt was a huge fail. The laser cutter was an 80 watt beast and my settings were way too high, resulting in a brown mess:

I’m also pretty sure I had the grain the wrong way

I took a huge step back and looked at engraving tutorials. I ended up using this one for my remaining engraving attempts: https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Laser-Engraving-Photo/

Using the tutorial’s settings gave me a much better result, however it looked too washed-out for what I had in mind:

Yes, I re-used the first piece of wood. I’m frugal.

I tried again. Keeping in mind it was an 80 watt laser cutter I got another board and adjusted the settings to:

And it gave me this:

Purrrfection

Comparing side by side:

I test-fit the first one to make sure it would work, hence the hole in the side

Once I had cut the engraved board to the right dimensions I lightly sanded with 220 grit sandpaper and gave it several coats of Minwax satin finish polyurethane. I normally don’t use spray poly, but did this time as I wanted to avoid missing crevices or it pooling unevenly.

To protect the bottom from moisture I found the original roll of foil tape[3] and applied it in overlapping strips, making sure to bring it up the sides as well:

Shiny

The final step was to run weatherstripping foam around the edges for Extra Sealing Power(TM). Luckily I had leftover weatherstripping from a previous weatherproofing project so we saved a few bucks:

Yay frugality!

And here’s the finished result!

You can see the original cover in the top right corner

I’m not going to lie, it turned out much better than expected.

If anyone else wants to do this I can upload the bitmap and RDWorks file. Please share a pic if you use them so I can see your cool Easter Egg too.

Thanks for reading, I hope you enjoyed it!

[1] Not the colored bunny kind

[2] Yes I know Mew isn’t a cat. But that tail! And that face!

[3] I actually have no idea if this will work in practice, but my research said it should. Guess we’ll find out the old fashioned way!